Yesterday, we were invited to join Angela and Dennis for a day out in our favourite town in Touraine, the beautiful and historic Loches. As part of her birthday present from her family, Angela had been gifted an overnight stay at the recently renovated Hôtel de la Cité Royale, a stunning blend of elegance and heritage.
We decided to make a full day of it and accompany them to visit the exhibition currently on display in the town, commemorating the 100th anniversary of the death of Louis Delaporte (1842–1925). Delaporte, born in Loches, was a pioneering explorer, artist, and passionate advocate for Khmer art. He played a major role in introducing France and the wider world to the majestic ruins of Angkor, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site in present-day Cambodia.
The exhibition was beautifully held across two venues: the Musée Lansyer and the Royal Lodgings. It was a fitting tribute to a man whose life bridged continents and cultures, and whose legacy continues to inspire.
We started the day at the Musée Lansyer, one of our favourite spots to visit whenever we’re in Loches. We love popping in to check out the current exhibitions and to admire the work of the artist himself. One thing that always stands out is the story of Lansyer’s early years When he told his parents he wanted to pursue art, they insisted he find a “real job”- now that would have been a great loss.
We also made our usual climb to the top of the Porte Royale, accessible through the gardens of the house. It's one of our favourite spots for a panoramic view of Loches.
The sight from up there is timeless — the landscape looks much as it did centuries ago, offering a rare glimpse into the town’s long history. It’s amazing to stand there and think about how little has changed in the passing of time.
Angela and Dennis in the frame.
After our visit to the Musée Lansyer, we made our way over to the Royal Lodgings for the main exhibition. Though we’re frequent visitors to Loches, it had been a few years since we’d explored the Château or the Donjon, so the exhibition was the perfect excuse to reacquaint ourselves with these historic landmarks. It’s always a pleasure to rediscover the rich history of the town,
The ticket for the Château also includes entry to the Donjon, so we decided to split the visits and break for lunch at Au Comptoir. (Oh and we squeezed in a visit to some friends beautiful house in the centre of the 'Royal City'.) It turned out to be a great choice, the food was delicious and the atmosphere was just right for a leisurely pause. Though we did have a bit of a “lost in translation” moment when it came to how the dishes were served, it only added to the charm of the experience. Sometimes, those little mix-ups are part of what makes dining out in a place like Loches so memorable! A visit to the Donjon always involves a fair bit of stair climbing and descending. By the time we’d explored the Governor’s Residence and the dungeons opposite, the idea of climbing the keep felt like a step too far, especially since we’ve done it before! Still, the view from the base is impressive enough to make you appreciate the scale of the place and we were happy to call it a day at that point.
As we left, I couldn’t resist popping into the gardens where Richard the Lionheart surely walked in the past, it’s my favourite spot to capture the iconic view of the keep, a perspective I’ve photographed countless times, yet it never gets old. There’s something about that scene, with its history and timeless beauty, that always feels worth capturing again.
We then headed over to Angela and Dennis' home for the night where we joined them for a wee refreshment on the terrace before heading back to the car and heading off for a bit of supermarket shopping!
All in all, a memorable day filled with art, history, good company, a good lunch and a good appreciation for the cultural richness of this, our favourite town in Touraine.
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