Back to April Paris visit day 2, part III - a visit to the enchanting Musée des Arts Forains.

On our visit to Paris we decided to check out a museum that had been on my radar for a while now - Musée des Arts Forains. So after a coffee break and short walk around Bercy Village we stepped into a whimsical, glittering world where time literally seems to spin backwards.

As soon as we walked under the arched entrance and into the courtyard, the outdoor 'Théâtre de Verdure' between the rows of pavilions, where we met up with our guide (*French), we knew we were going to enjoy the experience.

The museum is housed within beautifully restored former19th-century wine warehouses of Bercy.

After a brief introduction we were led into the museum proper.

This magical place brings back to life the golden age of fairs, carnivals, and Belle Époque entertainment. Here, antique carousels, mechanical barrel organs, mirrored halls, painted backdrops, and vintage fairground attractions create an immersive experience that feels more like stepping onto an enchanted film set than visiting a traditional museum.

Instead of silent displays behind glass, visitors wander freely among the treasures. The knowledgeable guide brought the collection to life with lively demonstrations - cranking up the organs, spinning the carousels, and sharing fascinating stories behind these beautifully preserved pieces of popular entertainment from the late 1800s and early 1900s.

It’s pure joy for both adults and children alike, a joyful, nostalgic escape into a bygone era of wonder and spectacle.

The numbers are restricted so as to allow everyone to join in with the accessible rides and games. You had the chance to play the classic derby horse racing game (we lost) and to ride the beautifully restored carousels.

 When we entered the large ballroom (?), where Hooghuys' (Belgian) street organ sits, as soon as the music started up our fellow French visitors all started to dance and we joined in - now I wonder had it been the English tour would this have happened? Lovely moment!

Then it was into the 'Salons Vénitiens' where mechanical puppets (automatons) dressed in Venetian costume gave an opera performances from balconies high above us.

The final ride of the tour was on an original velocipede carousel dating from 1897 (one of the oldest in the world) where the riders propel themselves around by pedal-power. We left that to the young'uns as it went really fast with even some of the youngsters having to lift their feet of the pedals! 

We left with big smiles on our faces and the fact that we had a French *guide did not take anything away from the experience,we would highly recommend a visit here. Book a morning visit followed by lunch in Bercy village and then take a walk through the Parc de Bercy,the makings of a lovely day out!

Les Pavillons de Bercy - Musée des Arts Forains

Paris visit April 2026 day 2...part II. Visiting Bercy Village: Paris’ Historic Wine Cellars Reborn.

With time to kill before our visit to the 'Musée des Arts Forains' so we decided to revisit Bercy Village which is in the same set of former wine cellars. We had last visited way back in 2013.

Once a bustling 19th-century wine hub, 'Cour Saint-Emilion' which was home to the cellars, fell silent in the 1960s. Today, the cellars (42 apparently) have been beautifully converted to form Bercy Village.

Saved from decay and listed as a Historical Monument, the site underwent a major transformation in the late 1990s. The result is a lively, all-generation destination blending history with modern energy set in the 12th arrondissement of Paris.

There are around 30 shops and probably too many restaurants with sunny terraces, plus fun leisure spots: a climbing wall, games bar, and immersive Science Experiences. We started our visit off at one of the coffee shops and finished it with a light lunch at another spot. We did no shopping as we had planned to also visit the nearby Parc de Bercy.

A popular 18-screen cinema and year-round cultural events complete the mix here.

Atmospheric, welcoming, and refreshingly different, Bercy Village proves old cellars can become one of Paris’s coolest hangouts, according to the official website - it does have a good vibe but 'coolest hangout', not so sure.

 Bercy Village is best accessed by taking metro Line 14 to station Cour Saint-Émilion. This brings you out directly at the main entrance to the 'village'.